Welcome to the “Old Hawaii” 🌺
Hilo is the beating heart of the Big Island’s lush East Side.
Far from the polished resorts, Hilo Hawaii offers an authentic taste of Old Hawaii with its historic downtown, thundering waterfalls, and vibrant rainforests.
This guide covers weather, geography, and essential tips for exploring Hawaii's "wet side.”
Table of contents
I. Kona vs. Hilo: What’s the Difference?
When comparing the East side vs. the West side of the Big Island, you are effectively looking at two distinct worlds divided by massive volcanoes.
Understanding this difference is crucial for planning your trip.
If Kona (West) is the "vacation" side with endless sunshine and Mai Tais, Hilo (East) is the "exploration" side - a place where the rainforest meets the sea.
Quick Comparison
Feature |
Kona (West Side) |
Hilo (East Side) |
Nickname |
The Dry Side |
The Wet Side |
Vibe |
Touristy, Resort-heavy, Polished |
Authentic, Historic, Local |
Weather |
Sunny, Hot, Arid (Lava fields) |
Rainy, Lush, Tropical (Rainforests) |
Beaches |
White sand, calm turquoise water |
Black sand, rocky coast, cooler water |
Best For |
Sunbathing, Snorkeling, Nightlife |
Waterfalls, Botanical Gardens, Volcano |
So, is the "Wet Side" reputation true? Yes, but don’t let the rain scare you away.
Without it, the island wouldn't have its stunning botanical gardens or thundering waterfalls.
Let's look at what to actually expect from the forecast.
The "Split Stay" Strategy
Because the drive between Kona and Hilo takes about 1.5 to 2 hours (one way) across the island, we strongly recommend a "split stay”.
Instead of driving back and forth, spend a few nights in Kona for the beach, then move to Hilo for 2-3 nights to explore Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and the waterfalls without rushing.
II. Hilo Big Island Weather
It is no secret: Hilo is wet.
In fact, according to U.S. Climate Data, Hilo is one of the rainiest cities in the United States, receiving an average of 127 inches (3,225 mm) of rainfall annually.
To put that in perspective, Seattle, famous for its gloom, averages about 37 inches per year.
However, don’t let these numbers scare you away. The rain here is warm and tropical, bringing life to the island.
Why is it so rainy?
The trade winds bring moisture-rich air from the ocean, which rises over the massive slopes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa.
The air is forced up, cools, and releases rain on the Hilo side.
This constant hydration is exactly why this region boasts massive banyan trees and lush rainforests that the dry West Side simply cannot support.
When does it rain?
The rainfall patterns in Hilo weather are often predictable, allowing you to plan around them:
Night Showers: A significant portion of the rain falls overnight.
Passing Squalls: Daytime rain usually comes in short bursts followed quickly by sunshine.
Temperature: Despite the rain, Hilo stays warm year-round, with average highs ranging from 79°F to 83°F (26°C-28°C).
Month |
Avg. Rainfall (Inches) |
Avg. High Temp (°F) |
Note |
January |
~9.3 in |
79°F |
Cool & Wet |
February |
~9.8 in |
79°F |
Cool & Wet |
March |
~13.0 in |
79°F |
Wettest Season |
April |
~10.0 in |
79°F |
Transition |
May |
~8.0 in |
81°F |
Drier |
June |
~7.3 in |
82°F |
Driest Month |
July |
~10.7 in |
83°F |
Summer Showers |
August |
~9.8 in |
83°F |
Warmest |
September |
~9.0 in |
83°F |
Good for travel |
October |
~9.6 in |
83°F |
Good for travel |
November |
~15.5 in |
81°F |
Heavy Rain |
December |
~11.5 in |
79°F |
Holiday Rains |
Best Time to Visit Hilo Hawaii
While it rains year-round, historical data suggest the "shoulder seasons" of May and September often see slightly lower precipitation than the winter months.
Now that you know what to expect from the skies, let's look at the best ways to arrive on the East Side.
III. How To Get To Hilo?
It's easier to get to Hilo than you might think, though it usually involves a connecting flight, since the Hilo side isn't as developed for tourism as the Kona side. Here is how to navigate your arrival:
1. Flying into Hilo International Airport (ITO)
Located just 10 minutes from downtown, Hilo International Airport (ITO) is the primary gateway to East Hawaii.
- From the US Mainland & International: Most visitors traveling from international destinations (such as Japan, Canada, and Europe) or the US Mainland will first fly to Honolulu (HNL) on Oahu.
From there, you will take a short 45-minute connecting flight to Hilo.
- Direct Flights: United Airlines occasionally operates direct flights from Los Angeles (LAX) to Hilo, but these can be seasonal.
Airlines: The two major carriers are Hawaiian Airlines and Southwest Airlines.
Typical Cost: Round-trip flights from the US West Coast generally range from $400 to $800, depending on the season.
2. Inter-Island Hopping (From Other Islands)
If you are already in Hawaii, "island hopping" to Hilo is affordable and fast.
Routes: Frequent daily flights connect Hilo (ITO) with Honolulu (HNL) and Kahului, Maui (OGG).
Cost: One-way inter-island tickets are surprisingly cheap, often ranging from $39 to $89 if booked in advance.
This makes Hilo an excellent option for a 2-3 day side trip from Oahu.
3. The "Fly to Kona & Drive" Option
Many travelers choose to fly into Kona International Airport (KOA), which has far more direct international flights, and then drive across the island.
The Route: You will take the Saddle Road (Daniel K. Inouye Highway).
It is a smooth, scenic 1.5 to 2-hour drive between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa.
Pro Tip: This is the best option if you plan to explore the whole island and want to avoid paying for two separate flights.
IV. Getting Around Hilo: Do you need a car?
1. Rental Car (Highly Recommended): Hilo is spread out. To reach the waterfalls, the volcano, and the tide pools, a car is essential.
Cost: Expect to pay $50–$100 per day for a standard vehicle.
Jeep Wranglers are popular but more expensive.
2. Rideshare & Taxis: Uber and Lyft are available but limited. A ride from the airport to Banyan Drive hotels costs about $15–$25, but finding a ride back from remote hiking spots can be difficult.
3. Hele-On Bus: The county bus is free (fare-free transit), but schedules are infrequent and geared toward locals commuting, not tourists sightseeing.
Once you have secured your transport, it is time to explore the town.
Unlike the resort bubbles of the West, Hilo is a real community divided into distinct historic districts.
V. Tourist Map Of Hilo Hawaii
Hilo is not just a single spot; it is a collection of distinct districts, each offering a characteristic slice of the "Old Hawaii" experience.
Based on geography, here are the four main zones you will explore:
1. Downtown Hilo (Culture & Markets)
Located along the bayfront, this is the historic heartbeat of the city where local culture thrives.
Best For: Shopping, dining, and history.
Highlights:
Hilo Farmers Market: The place to buy exotic tropical fruits such as papaya, lychee, and crafts.
Pacific Tsunami Museum: Learn about the massive waves that reshaped this town.
Imiloa Astronomy Center: A world-class center exploring the link between Hawaiian culture and the stars (located just above downtown near the university).
2. Banyan Drive (The Hotel Strip)
Just east of downtown on the Waiākea Peninsula, this iconic loop is also known by the name "Hilo Walk of Fame”.
It is shaded by massive banyan trees planted by celebrities in the 1930s.
Best For: Accommodation and scenic walks.
Highlights:
Liliʻuokalani Gardens: The most extensive authentic Japanese garden outside of Japan.
Coconut Island (Moku Ola): A tiny, accessible island perfect for a picnic or a quick jump into the bay.
3. The Keaukaha Coast (Beaches & Turtles)
Continuing east along Kalanianaole Avenue, this 4-mile stretch is the "Coastal & Bay Area" where the rainforest meets the ocean.
Best For: Swimming and snorkeling.
Highlights:
Richardson Ocean Park: The best black sand beach in Hilo, famous for green sea turtles (Honu).
Carlsmith Beach Park: Known for its crystal-clear, cold lagoon water (no sand, just grass and lava rocks).
4. The Uplands (Waterfalls & Caves)
Head up Waianuenue Avenue from downtown, and you instantly enter the lush "Nature" zone.
Best For: Geological wonders and jungle vibes.
Highlights:
Wailuku River State Park: Home to the famous Rainbow Falls (best seen in the morning) and the bubbling Boiling Pots.
Kaumana Caves Park: A massive lava tube formed by Mauna Loa in 1881. You can walk inside, so bring a flashlight!
While the town layout is charming, the real reason most travelers come to Hilo is not for the city streets, but for the massive natural wonders located just a short drive away.
VI. Highlight Attractions
Beyond the town limits, Hilo serves as the perfect base camp for some of the Big Island's most iconic natural wonders.
1. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Hilo is the gateway to the volcano.
A short 45-minute drive takes you from sea level to the smoking crater of Kīlauea.
Why stay in Hilo? It is much easier to drive back to Hilo after watching the glowing lava at night than to drive 2+ hours back to Kona in the dark.
2. Rainbow Falls (Waiānuenue)
Located within Hilo town limits (a 5-minute drive from downtown).
Pro Tip: Go early in the morning (around 10 AM) on a sunny day.
When the sun hits the mist rising from the 80-foot drop, a vibrant rainbow appears, giving the falls their name.
3. Akaka Falls State Park
Located about 20 minutes north on the Hamakua Coast.
A short, paved loop trail takes you through a dense bamboo forest and fern jungle to reveal the towering 442-foot Akaka Falls.
It is arguably the most photogenic waterfall on the island.
4. Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve & Garden
This garden is often called the most beautiful valley in Hawaii.
This garden is a living museum of tropical plants located along the scenic Onomea Bay scenic drive.
After hiking volcanoes and chasing waterfalls, you will likely want to cool off.
But be warned: swimming in Hilo is very different from Kona.
VII. Beaches in Hilo: Black Sand & Cold Springs
If you are expecting the warm, expansive white sands of Kona, you need to adjust your expectations
Hilo beaches are wilder, rockier, and surprisingly cooler due to the fresh mountain spring water that flows into the ocean here.
However, they offer something Kona cannot: the chance to swim with massive sea turtles in crystal-clear lagoons surrounded by jungle.
1. Richardson Ocean Park (The Black Sand Gem)
This is the most popular beach in Hilo for a reason.
It is one of the few places on the East Side with actual sand, distinctive black sand mixed with glittering green olivine crystals.
Why go: It is the best place to see Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles (Honu). They are almost always here, grazing on the rocks in the shallows.
Amenities: Showers, lifeguards, and picnic tables make it very family-friendly.
2. Carlsmith Beach Park (Four Mile)
A unique "beach" with no sand at all. Instead, a manicured grassy lawn goes right up to the water’s edge.
You climb down a ladder into a protected, crystal-clear lagoon.
The "Ice Pond" Effect: Freshwater springs up from the ground here, creating layers of cold freshwater atop warm saltwater.
It’s refreshing but can be chilly!
Best for: Snorkeling and floating in calm water.
3. Honoliʻi Beach Park (The Surf Spot)
Located just north of town, this is the premier surf break on the East Side.
The Vibe: It’s not ideal for swimming because of the river mouth and currents.
But it is the perfect spot to park your car, watch local surfers catch waves, and enjoy the raw power of the ocean.
4. Onekahakaha Beach Park (For Toddlers)
If you are traveling with small children, this is your safest bet.
A large boulder breakwall creates a shallow, sandy-bottomed pool that is completely protected from open-ocean waves. All that adventure will work up an appetite.
Fortunately, Hilo is legendary for its cheap and authentic local food.
VIII. Hilo Food Scene: Cheap, Authentic & Local
Forget the overpriced resort buffets.
Hilo is arguably the best place in Hawaii for "grinds" (local slang for delicious food).
The history of Japanese and Hawaiian plantations heavily influences the culinary scene here.
1. The Loco Moco Capital
You cannot visit Hilo without eating a Loco Moco (white rice, hamburger patty, brown gravy, and a fried egg).
Where to go: Cafe 100. This historic drive-in claims to be the birthplace of the Loco Moco. It is fast, cheap, and legendary.
Late Night: Ken’s House of Pancakes is a 24-hour diner institution famous for its "Sumo" sized portions.
2. Fresh Poke by the Bay
- Where to go: Suisan Fish Market. Located right on the water at the mouth of the Wailoa River.
- The Experience: You pick your fresh poke (cubed raw fish) from the deli case and eat it on the picnic tables outside overlooking Hilo Bay. It doesn’t get fresher than this.
3. The Famous Strawberry Mochi
- Where to go: Two Ladies Kitchen.
- Pro Tip: This tiny shop is famous for its massive Strawberry Mochi (a whole fresh strawberry wrapped in red bean paste and soft mochi).
- Warning: The line is long. Call them in the morning to pre-order, or be prepared to wait.
4. Hilo Farmers Market
- Best Days: Wednesday and Saturday (Big Market Days).
- What to buy: Look for exotic fruits you can't find in Kona, like Mangosteen, Rambutan, and the super-sweet White Pineapple (Sugarloaf).
Now that you have sampled the local flavors, you will need a place to rest.
Just like the food scene here, Hilo’s accommodation options prioritize history and character over modern luxury.
IX. Where to Stay in Hilo
Adjust your expectations: Hilo does not have luxury 5-star mega-resorts like the Four Seasons or Rosewood.
Instead, lodging here is about character, history, and nature.
1. Banyan Drive Hotels (The Classics)
Most visitors stay on "Hotel Row" along Hilo Bay.
These are older properties, but they offer unbeatable ocean views.
Grand Naniloa Hotel (DoubleTree by Hilton): The most "modern" option. Suitable for Hilton Honors members, it has a golf course, but rooms can be small.
Hilo Hawaiian Hotel: A classic favorite. It feels like stepping back into the 1970s, but it is clean and reliable, and it offers the best views of Mauna Kea from the balconies.
- SCP Hilo Hotel: A newly renovated, eco-conscious hotel that focuses on sustainability and wellness. An excellent option for younger travelers.
- The Inn at Kulaniapia Falls: For a truly unique splurge, stay here.
- It is an off-grid B&B located on a private property with its own massive waterfall, where you can swim under it.
3. Rainforest Airbnbs
- Location: Look for rentals in the Volcano Village area (45 mins away) or the rainforests just above Hilo town.
- Vibe: Sleep in a treehouse or a cozy cottage surrounded by ferns and the sound of coqui frogs at night.
X. Wrap Up: Is Hilo Right for You?
Hilo is not for everyone. If you need guaranteed sunshine, poolside cabanas, and nightlife, stick to Kona.
But if you are a traveler who wants to feel the mana (spirit) of the island, chase rainbows, and see a side of Hawaii that hasn't changed in decades, Hilo will capture your heart.
Ready to explore the Wet Side?
Pack: A rain jacket and water shoes.
Plan: 2-3 nights here to cover the Volcano and waterfalls.
Eat: Start with a Loco Moco and end with fresh Mochi.
Aloha and safe travels!
Frequently Asked Questions
01. Is Hilo safe for tourists?
Yes, generally. However, the town shuts down early (around 9 PM). Also, don't panic if you hear sirens on the 1st of the month at 11:45 AM—it is just a Tsunami Warning test.
02. Can I swim in the waterfalls?
Proceed with caution. Freshwater streams can carry Leptospirosis (bacteria). Rule of thumb: Never swim with open cuts, and avoid water that looks brown or murky (flash flood risk).
03. What is that loud chirping noise at night?
Coqui Frogs. These tiny invasive frogs are everywhere in the rainforest and are extremely loud (up to 90dB). Pro Tip: Bring earplugs if you are a light sleeper.
04. Is everything closed on Sundays?
Many places are. Hilo is old-school. Shops, restaurants, and markets often close early or take the day off. Check hours in advance.
05. Can I do Hilo as a day trip from Kona?
Not recommended. It is a 4-hour round-trip drive. You will spend more time in the car than exploring. We suggest staying at least 2 nights to fully appreciate the Volcano.
Makana Navigato
Sustainable Travel Strategist at Hawaii Tourism Research CenterAloha, I’m Makana Navigato. My foundation in travel management from the University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa ignited a lifelong passion for navigating the hidden soul of our islands. I don't just show you destinations; I invite you to connect deeply with the land and its people. My vision is to champion a style of travel that honors our environment and preserves the sanctity of our home for the world to admire